THE DALES WAY

DAY 3
Appletreewick to  Buckden
(16 miles)

During breakfast we struck up a conversation with two ladies who were also walking The Dales Way (albeit at a much more sedate pace), and spent a pleasant half-hour exchanging stories and experiences of the walk so far, of other walks we had completed, and those that were on our respective 'to-do' lists.   After settling-up with the landlord, we set off walking at 09:30.

Despite the continued hot weather, today was altogether more pleasant than the previous two as we were finally able to enjoy some long-awaited solitude.  Two soul mates alone in the wide-open spaces ... at one with nature ... breathing fresh air ... no sound but for the babbling river and gentle birdsong.   Aaaahhh ... seclusion at last!

Of course, we should have known that the idyll would be short-lived.

Beyond Burnsall the riverbank was covered - literally covered - in rubbish.  Litter of all kinds.  Bottles, cans, crisp packets, disposable barbeques, li-los, clothes ... and this carnage lasted for half a mile or so.  Obviously the remnants of another 'Bolton Abbey experience'.   We staggered through this scene of devastation in a state of shock; unable to concieve the utter selfishness and ignorance of so many people.   Shame on them !

Fortunately it was the litter that was short-lived.   Once we had cleared the 'war zone' we were back to the unspoiled river experience.

We took a short water-stop at Hebden suspension bridge, then continued to Grassington where we purchased rolls and 'afters' (Yorkshire curd tart for me, cranberry & sunflower flapjack for Carolyn) and stowed them in our packs for lunchtime. 

Leaving Grassington we headed away from the river for pretty much the first time since leaving Ilkley, heading instead up onto a wide-open limestone escarpment, crossing it for several miles, then dropping down to the village of Kettlewell.

Here we stopped for pints of orange and lemonade at The King's Head pub.  Once again it was absolutely scorching, and the opportunity to cool down and replenish our liquid levels was not to be missed.  Unfortunately, in our sugar-induced reverie we managed somehow to get lost/confused/flustered in the village, but eventually rejoined The Wharfe, and the Dales Way, after an unnecessary delay.

Beyond Kettewell was a peaceful, lonely section of the walk, once again largely following the river.  At a final water stop we were passed by another couple, who by coincidence were also walking the Dales Way and staying at our B&B. (Chatting later in the West Winds tea garden, we found that this was none other than 'Rambling Pete', famous web presence and one of the mainstays of the Walking Places website).  We followed the other couple for the final two-or-three miles to Buckden.  They did pull away from us a little, but they were travelling light (Rambling Pete later swore blind that the baggage transfer was for Mrs Pete's benefit. I ask you ...!) 

On arrival at West Winds, we were shown our rooms, and invited down for tea and cake (a choice from a rather extensive menu) in the garden - a very pleasant way to end a day's walking.  Back in the room, we discovered a box of locally-made chocolates on each pillow.  Nice!!

After a quick bath to freshen up, a very short amble through the village found us at the Buck Inn for dinner and drinks. Mushroom-and-nut stroganof hit the spot perfectly - as did the couple of pints of Black Sheep.

Three days down ...