THE DALES HIGH WAY

DAY THREE
 Hetton to Settle
(12.2 miles)

Today started pretty much as yesterday ended - with wonderful food at The Angel Inn.   Breakfast included fresh fruit salad, freshly-squeezed orange juice and a spectacular full English with an exceptional black pudding.   Carolyn opted for the lighter option of scrambled eggs with smoked salmon ... at least she thought it would be the lighter option.   In reality, she was served a plate full of salmon that had been shaved from a fish the size of Moby Dick and was accompanied by a dozen scrambled eggs!

In keeping with yesterday's weather, we woke to a dull, grey morning and once again, by the time we had finished our breakfast the rain was tipping down.   In contrast, however, by the time we had sorted out our rucksacks and settled our bill, the rain had eased somewhat and we set out in a light drizzle.   After about forty five minutes' walk along the flat, wall-lined Moor Lane we were able to take off our waterproofs.   It was still very grey and foreboding - but at least the rain had stopped for now.

Dropping down to a solid stone footbridge, we could see that the water level in Winterburn Reservoir was very low.    Not surprising given that there was talk of droughts and hosepipe bans just the other side of the Pennines, but after our soaking yesterday, and the current weather, we decided that we must have been really unlucky so far.

Beyond the bridge we climbed up onto Hetton Common and continued a long steady pull uphill (stopping to once again don the raingear) to the trig point (ta dah!) and stone cross at Weets Top.   Deprived once again of the stunning views from the summit we descended steeply along the road to Goredale House and from there took the optional detour to see the amazing limestone spectacle that is Goredale Scar.   From here we had a lovely jaunt into Malham - walking along a very pleasant woodland path by Kate's Foss waterfall and Gordale Beck then through open meadows to the village.

We stopped for lunch - the obligatory Yorkshire curd tart and pot of tea - at one of the cafes in Malham before heading up to the Cove where we saw, and most definitely heard, a pair of peregrine falcons and their chicks swooping around the limestone amphitheatre to a packed audience of 'twitchers'.   Not wanting to hang around with so many 'beards with binoculars', we climbed up the steep stone stairs to alight on the famous limestone pavement high above the Cove.   Here we picked up the 'proper' route that climbed steadily up the rocky bottom of Dry Valley before emerging onto more open grassy moorland at Langscar Gate.

This stretch of the Way was quite busy - lots of day-walkers and a meeting-of-the-paths with the Pennine Way - and we took great pleasure in catching and overtaking a lage party of 'ramblers' bedecked in all the latest walking gear (that was probably being worn for the first and only time).

Once we got up past Nappa Cross and on to Nappa gate, though, we were alone again.   Better still, the sun was out and the cloud had all but disappeared.  Hoorah!

An open track took us gently up and over Kirkby Fell then on a long steady descent with open views ahead, eventually leading us past a farm and out onto Stockdale Lane.   After a short walk on the tarmac, we passed through a wooden gate to follow a path beneath the imposing but absolutely gorgeous and enthralling limestone cliff face(s) of Attermire Scar and Warrendale Knotts. Apparently there are any number of caves to be explored in this area, but we really didn't have the time (or, if truth be known, the energy) to do so.   Sometime we will return for a proper look ... 

We stopped here in this magical place for a snack and a drink of water before the final push up a short climb by Warrendale Knotts.   At the brow of the hill, a magnificent view opened out, Settle immediately down in the valley bottom, and the unmistakable mass of Ingleborough in the distance.   A final steep descent found us in Settle;  not a large town, but after the solitude of the last couple of hours or so, a bit of a shock to the system.

We were greeted at Settle Lodge with a pot of tea and a slice of cake. The room is lovely and the bed comfortable. Wonderful.

For dinner, we head back into town with the promise of an Italian restaurant, and thoughts of pasta, pizza and Pinot Grigio swirling around in our heads ... but it is closed, so we have to make do with fish and chips at a cafe with plastic tablecloths ....

... such are the hardships of life on the trail !!