THE DALES WAY

DAY 4
Buckden to Ribblehead
(14 miles)

We had a lovely breakfast (not a quiet beakfast, thanks to the resident black cat who was insistent that he should be the centre of attention at all times) and packed lunch from West Winds, and it was with somewhat heavy hearts that we left Buckden.

We were soon back on the riverside path, making the most of the wonderfully peaceful setting and the morning sunshine.   At Hubberholme we had a brief stop to take photographs of the stone bridge and wider-than-average church.

The River Wharfe was changing in character now - becoming narrower and spilling over lots of limestone waterfalls as we headed for the headwaters.    We were now in an area called Langstrothdale.

At Yokenthwaite - and several other places - the river dried up completely, disappearing into the riverbed and re-appearing a hundred metres further downstream.

It was on this stretch that, much to our delight and relief, we spotted our first and only dipper of the walk. (Our guidebook, obviously written by an enthusiastic 'twitcher', had been promising large numbers of these elusive birds along the whole length of the river since leaving Leeds.)

We both agreed that this stretch of the Dales Way was probably our favourite bit, so we were sad to reach Beckermonds, the point at which we left the River Wharfe for the last time.   We had been walking for about three-and-a-half days, and during that time had never strayed very far from the river.

Now we headed north on a minor road to Oughtershaw with it's 'celtic' cross (actually erected to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887).   From here, a long, long track headed ever-so slowly but relentlessly upwards, passing several isolated farm buildings before reducing to a distinct path over boggy grassland.    At this point the slope became a bit steeper, rising up to the isolated farmstead of Cam Houses.

Beyond the farm a steeper (but thankfully short) climb brought us to Cam Forest. We had read several accounts of people getting lost or stuck in boggy ground in the Forest, so we were quite wary as we hit the treeline.   There was no need to worry, however, as recent work marking the path meant there was no chance of going off-course, and we soon emerged from the conifers unscathed.

One final pull up a steep grassy slope and we were at the cairn and guidepost on Cam High Road.   At this isolated fingerpost we had reached the highest point on the Dales Way at 521 metres (1437 feet) above sea level.   It was all (metaphorically) downhill from here ...

... and indeed it was. Following this old roman road was easy on the brain and the legs, but not so easy on the feet.   After nearly four days carrying heavy loads, the two and half miles down to the road allowed fairly quick progress, but the hard pounding was the last thing the soles of our feet needed just now.

The agony was compounded when we reached the road at Far Gearstones.   Now, in order to reach our B&B, The Station Inn at Ribblehead, we had an uphill rather than downhill slog along a busy road. Although the pub was supposedly a mile distant, I think Yorkshire folk must measure distance using a diffrent ruler to the rest of us.   This was a 'mile' to rival the infamous one marked on a fingerpost pointing to Keld Lodge on the Cost To Coast path ... 

Rooms at The Station were small, and the stair carpet was close to rivalling that of the infamous "black hole of Richmond", but the food was wonderful (locally-produced pork and sausages), and the staff very friendly and helpful.