After another fight with the miniscule Dalesman tables - this time a precarious shuffling-and-balancing of two sets of orange juice, tea mugs, teapot, toast and full English (along with a full set of condiments and (naturally) side plates) we were ready to check out and get on our way.
We called in at our favoured greengrocer and bakery for provisions, then headed up ... and up ... onto the Howgill Fells.
This morning was a bit windy down in Sedburgh, but as we climbed, it got REALLY WINDY !! And not only windy. As we gained height the cloud descended to meet us, so that as we reached the ridge path, not only were we struggling to stay on our feet, but we could barely see more than about three yards ahead.
Once again, our trusty Companion had some soothing words of reassurance: "The route now crosses the entire Howgill Fell range in a breathtaking six mile ridge walk." How true. My breath was well-and-truly taken !
More mocking descriptions: "The steep climb out of Sedburgh up Settlebeck Gill takes you quickly onto the fell tops where the views across to Lakeland in the west and the Pennines in the east are amongst the best in the Yorkshire Dales."
Yet again we seemed to be missing out on the promised stunning panoramic views. As it happened we barely saw the trig point (tah-bloody-dah !) - slap-bang in the middle of the path at the summit of The Calf - until we had bumped into it.
By the time we had reached the summit we were frozen and pee'ed off. (Not as frozen, I suspect, as a small group of school kids (?) heading in the opposite direction. At least we were properly equipped. They were, as one of them eloquently explained, "doing our D of E". Some of them were heavily laden with rucksacks the size of Wales, the others had practically no baggage and no obvious warm gear. In fairness, none of them appeared to be suffering unduly .... but hat might just have been bravado to make us 'oldies' feel even colder.)
To get out of the maelstrom as quickly as possible we gratefully took advantage of the 'bad weather alternative' route and headed down Ravonsdale rather than continuing along the ridge route. After descending for about twenty minutes we had well-and-truly left the cloud behind, but the wind was still very strong - and was blowing directly into our faces. We hunkered down in the lee of some large boulders for a short lunch break, but didn't want to sit for too long for fear of freezing.
After lunch the scenery started to open up, and by the time we rejoined the descending ridge- route there were wonderful views of open countryside, and even the odd patch of sunshine in the distance.
A little further down we stopped at a small conifer plantation to finish off our lunch and remove our waterproofs (or, more correctly in this case 'windproofs'). I don't think tiffin ever tasted so good !
A half-mile on we stopped again - this time at the pretty stone bridge at Bowderdale. The sun was out, and the world was a wonderful place once more. Our battle with the elements meant we had barely stopped walking for much of the day (if you discount trying to read the map and putting on extra clothing), so we were well ahead of schedule. We relaxed for a while, revelling in the sun's heat and drinking in the peace and tranquillity.
Beyond Bowderdale it was all road-walking - initially crossing beneath the busy A685, then a gentle climb along a quiet country lane bordered by fields of wheat. This was completely different scenery (and weather) from the morning, but most enjoyable
We reached the B&B, Tranna Hill, at 15:30 - a little early, but the landlady was fine with that. Once again we had a lovely, comfortable room. We have done really well with accommodation on this walk. Not a single place that we would not relish the chance of returning to.
There are no eating places in Newbiggin, so landlady Brenda dropped us off at The Black Swan in Ravenstonedale, and arranged for a taxi to return us later in the evening. The excursion and a fantastic meal were shared with Mike and Brian, fellow guests who were also walking the Dales High Way. There was much relaxed banter about the trip so far and a fruitful exchange of experiences walking elsewhere in the country and further afield.
A great end to a great day - despite the hardships endured !
DALES HIGH WAY PAGES Photo Album Recommendations
Dales High Way Home Page Day 1 - Saltaire to Addingham Day 2 - Addingham to Hetton Day 3 - Hetton to Settle
Day 4 - Settle to Chapel-le-Dale Day 5 - Chapel-le-Dale to Sedburgh Day 6 - Sedburgh to Newbiggin Day 7 - Newbiggin to Appleby