THE DALES HIGH WAY

DAY FOUR
 Settle to Chapel-le-Dale
(14.2 miles)

The early morning sun was glorious as we made our way along the river passing a weir then the multi-cascade waterfalls of Stainforth Force (not a great deal of 'force' in evidence after the prolonged dry spring).

Beyond the waterfalls we reached Stainforth Bridge, the point at which we leave the Ribble valley, and head due west through Little Stainforth to start climbing uphill towards the limestone uplands of Smearset Scar.   We also leave behind the sunshine, and as soon as we leave the road at Little Stainforth, the wind picks up and rain begins to fall.

Fortunately it is just a shower, and by the time we have dithered around and finally decided that we should put on waterproofs, it has all-but stopped again.    We continued uphill, pausing only to marvel at the level of noise produced by a few local sheep excited by the arrival of their breakfast, as the landscape opened out into typical limestone grazing land.

At the brow of the hill we drop down, heading for Scar Close Farm, and as we do so, notice an italicised comment in the DHW Companion: "With a bit of luck the farmhouse opposite is serving tea and refreshments".   How many times has this happened to us?   A throw-away comment in a guide book, and our stomachs are suddenly grumbling like Harry (an old friend - see the Ridgeway and Coast to Coast sections!) only to discover that the promised teashop/ice cream van/bakery is either closed today, is no longer in existence, or has a queue a mile long.   We try not to get our hopes up - assume it will be closed, and we won't be disappointed ...

 As it turned out, we were not disappointed - far from it!   The farmhouse had miraculously been transformed into 'Elaine's Tea Room', and was jammed to the rafters with tea and cake.    After much deliberation, we finally plumped for a large pot of tea and two equally large slices of home-made chocolate cake,  sat outside and gorged ourselves ...

 Tearing ourselves away from Elaine's delights, we wandered through the tiny hamlet of Feizor, discussing how practical it might be to work from home (or the teashop) in such a place.

From Feizor we followed a very pleasant track and a walled green lane past another hamlet, Wharfe, all the time enjoying alternating gorgeous views - across the dale to outcrops of limestone and beyond to Pen-y-ghent - with enclosed sections, the secluded lane filled with wild flowers and overhung by the canopies of trees and hawthorn bushes.   Quite stunning.   At the end of the lane the track opens out to cross a small beck via a 'clapper bridge'.   This is apparently a very popular picnic spot, but there was no-one else to be seen when we passed by.   (Truth be told, outside of the towns and obvious tourist attractions we did not meet many other people out-and-about along most of the of the DHW).

Here we joined a minor road that lead to a complete change in scenery.   After stopping for a short lunch break sheltered by a stone wall enclosure by Crummack Farm, we climbed steadily up onto the open, barren, high limestone moors.   With spectacular expanses of limestone pavement all around we slowly headed into the mist and murk toward the forbidding, cloud-enshrined mass that is Ingleborough. 

As we climbed the cloud came to meet us.   It was cold, it was windy, it was damp and drizzly, but we had no option.  Onward and upward ...

 One final pull up a steep (but conveniently stepped) path and we were on the top.   A very large, flat and exposed top ... it took at least five minutes to battle our way over to the cairn and trig point on the far side.   Still, we had now reached the highest point of the Dales High Way at 734 metres above sea level.   It would have been great to admire the alleged expansive views ( "The panoramic views are unsurpassed on a clear day") and to "take time and explore the ancient remains of Ingleborough hillfort" ... but the threat of hypothermia and/or frostbite drove us to immediately turn around and head back down...

'The 'dismount' was very steep - "hair-raising", according to the Companion - but the vast number of visitors to the Three Peaks has lead to the Park authority to install what is effectively a stone staircase all the way down to more level ground at Humphrey Bottom.   Thereafter a combination of duckboards and paving slabs lead you through Ingleborough Nature Reserve until reaching the pretty limestone terraces with a tongue-twister of a name - Souther Scales Scars - and the thought-provoking "Braithwaite Wife Hole". 

The moment we dropped down from the summit plateau we were sheltered from the wind, and with each step descended the cloud was a little less dense.   By the time we were half-way down, the world was a much better place, and though the sun was nowhere to be seen, it was much brighter and there were lovely clear views to be had.   From the Wife Hole (Carolyn made a point of keeping her distance, despite my protestations that I wouldn't dream of doing anything untoward), a gentle descent on a spongy grass path found us looking down on our destination - Chapel-le-Dale.

Our B&B for the night, Croft Gate, was really, really nice - our favourite of the whole trip.   We were greeted with tea and cake - which is always a good sign - (yes, even more tea and cake. I have said this before, but for the benefit of those new to this website: one has to keep up one's energy reserves when out walking all day!) and the room and en suite bathroom were perfect with all the little extras you could wish for including hand-made toiletries.   Our hosts were very friendly and helpful, but not intrusive.

There was no evening meal option at Croft Gate, but the local pub, The Old Hill Inn, was within walking distance.   Unfortunately it was about half-a-mile along a reasonably busy road with no path or lighting ... but it was definitely worth the walk.   Good beer and food in an olde-worlde pub - and deserts that would not look out of place in the Tate Modern.