THE DALES HIGH WAY

DAY TWO 
 Addingham to Hetton
(12.9 miles)

Before breakfast it was grey and overcast, and by the time we had completed such a mammoth feast the heavens had opened and it was raining steadily.

We donned waterproofs and headed out from the Craven Heifer, heading due north up the so-called 'Roman Road'.   Despite the rain this was an enjoyable stroll over a series of low undulating hills with some stunning vistas over open countryside, down into Skipton, and across the moor to Sharp Haw in the distance.   In good weather I imagine it could be a stunning stretch.

Late morning we dropped down through woods into the bustle of Skipton.   Despite the rain, or perhaps because of it, the place seemed to be heaving with people.   Certainly it was a shock to our senses after seeing not a single person all morning.   We stopped at a cafe for a cup of tea, then scouted around looking for the best source of sandwiches for lunch.   As per usual, after purchasing (very nice, but) bulk-standard fayre from Greggs, we turned a corner to find that we had missed a golden opportunity to savour the home-made delights and local speciality cakes and savouries courtesey of Ye Olde Sandwyche Shope, or some such.   Such is life - at least, such is our life.   Every single time!

Heading uphill out of town we climbed to the brow of Park Hill where there are nice views back over the town, and in the opposite direction over to Sharp Haw, our next objective.

It was still raining steadily and we finally found reasonable shelter under hawthorn bushes as we passed through a gate on the approach to Sharp Haw.   Despite missing out on 'Ye Olde Sandwyches', Greggs did us proud.   Huddled together, rain dripping off our noses, that lunch tasted sublime.   And with such a magificent view of Sharp Haw up ahead.   It's what this 'walking' thing is all about ...

After lunch we headed up to the summit. The views from here would, I'm sure, have been mightily impressive under better weather conditions - but today's mist and low cloud reduced visibility to out immediate environs.

We descended (after a bit of a dither establishing which of five was the correct path) through bracken to a marked post (even more options here !) and then down to a lovely green lane that led to the hamlet of Flasby.

Passing the handful of cottages and out onto grazing land we walked high above the Flasby Beck en route to our destination for the day, Hetton.   Within a mile of Hetton, the clouds parted and for the first time since setting off from Addingham that morning we were able to take off our waterproofs.    This last stretch was also memorable in that it afforded our first close encounter with a herd of highland cattle - we didn't know at the time, but this would be the first of many such encounters.

The weather meant that we not had many stops during the day, and we arrived at the Angel Inn quite early.    And for the second time that day we strode into more hustle-and-bustle.   A typical Angel Sunday afternoon, apparently - a christening party, a barbeque and a salsa band.    All had been hastily shoved under a couple of large awnings due to the inclement weather.   The staff, however, were obviously accustomed to such clamour, and after a drink we were shown to our room.   And what a room...

When planning this walk we had baulked at the cost of staying at this pub 'out in the middle of nowhere' - particularly as there were no alternatives.    It was, however, and as they say,  'here or nowhere'.    There is an addage that says you get what you pay for, but in our experience B&Bs are the exception to that rule ... partiularly in an isolated location where there is little or no competition.

We should not have worried.   Yes, it was expensive - some might say very expensive - but at the Angel Inn we most definitely got what we paid for.   The room was fantastic, located in an annex 'The Wine Cellar' across the road from the clamour at the pub.   Every facility was provided including a caffetierre with real coffee, complimentary chocolates and very posh biscuits.   A little later, ahead of dinner, a knock on the door revealed a waiter with a plate of canapes.

As we had arrived early, we had plenty of time to take a relaxing bath, wash socks and then chill for a while before heading back over to the pub for dinner at 19:30.   By that time, most people had departed, and the pub had reverted to a more typical country inn.

The food was superb.   Steve had local sausages (to call them 'bangers' would be an insult !) with mustard mash followed by a glazed banana tart with rum and raisin ice cream.   Carolyn opted for fish pie followed by lemon tart for pudding.   WOW !